Archive for February, 2009

Leaves

Saturday, February 28th, 2009

The leaves of woody plants consist of the stalk or petiole and the lamina or blade. The petiole facilitates movement and positioning of the leaf. The blade is the part where photosynthesis, respiration and transpiration take place.

Simple leaves may differ in outline and may be linear - a narrow leaf with parallel sides, at least 12 times as long as it is wide; acicular- a narrow cylindrical leaf with a pointed tip, needle-like in form; lanceolate - basically, a leaf shaped like the head of a lance, with the broadest part below the middle and tapered to a point, but never less than 3 times as long as it is wide; ovate - similar to lanceolate, but always wider, and never more than twice as long as it is wide; egg-shaped; obovate - the reverse of ovate, the stalk rising from the narrow. end; orbicular - a rounded leaf as long as it is wide; cordate - heart-shaped, referring to the lobed base of leaves. rhomboid - diamond-shaped, or roughly so.

Because the amount of carbon dioxide in the air is very low (0.03 per cent on average), the tree has to process great quantities of air. This must take place on the greatest possible leaf surface, which is why the leaves of woody plants are so thin, and why a mature tree has tens or hundreds of thousands of them.

When the leaflets are arranged laterally in pairs on the main leaf stalk, the leaf is termed pinnately compound.

In comparison with non-woody plants they have the great advantage of height and longevity. Before man introduced intensive land cultivation most of the Earth’s surface was covered with forests. Even today the forest would soon reclaim the land, should man cease to tend and cultivate it. This is borne out not only by examples in tropical Africa and southeast Asia, but also by all the lands in Europe that have been left lying fallow.

Only where insufficient rainfall, high temperatures or severe winters and frozen soil prevent the growth of trees do they leave such areas to grass, shrubs and succulents.

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Small Leaved Lime and Large Leaved Lime

Saturday, February 28th, 2009

The small-leaved lime is widespread throughout most of Europe, extending northwards to Sweden, and eastwards to the Urals. In western and central Europe it occurs in oak forests in lowland and hill country. It also grows as a scattered tree in riverine forests, and is plentiful in scree woods.

It grows to a height of 25 to 30 metres and, under forest competition, develops a long, straight bole; open-grown forms have a short, stout trunk with large, broadly ovoid crown. It may live to an age of 500 to 800 years. Centuries-old solitary trees in the country afford not only shade and respite from the heat, but also a lovely sight for the eyes to feast on. The small-leaved lime is one of the latest-flowering trees.

The common ash is widely distributed in southern, central and western Europe, the northern boundary of its range extending from Great Britain across Scandinavia to Leningrad and the Volga River. It is most plentiful in lowland forests on alluvial river deposits, and alongside streams. It is. also found growing in scree woods in hilly country and high up in the mountains, even at elevations above 1000 metres. It requires rich, moist soil to do really well and often occurs in damp gullies and near streams, though it does not tolerate water-logged situations.

The large-leaved lime is closely related to the small-leaved lime, and has a similar range of distribution. However, its northern boundary does not extend to the Baltic Sea, and, in the east, it occurs only as far as the western Ukraine. It is most plentiful in hilly country and foothills at elevations of 400 to 700 metres, though the occasional, single tree may be found up to 1000 metres above sea level. It occurs in broad-leaved woods and requires richer and moister soil than the small-leaved lime.

The common ash reaches a height of 30 to 35 metres or more under forest conditions, and develops a slender, straight bole with high set crown. It is sensitive to late spring frosts and, when the terminal shoot is damaged, often develops twin stems.

In winter, it is easily distinguished by its squat black buds, in summer by the odd- pinnate leaves. The male, female or bisexual flowers, without sepals or petals, appear before the leaves and are pollinated by the wind. The common ash is an important timber tree, and is also planted in parks and evenues. There are several ornamental cultivated varieties, notably F.e. pendula, with a broad crown of pendulous branches.

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Wild Service Tree and Service Tree

Saturday, February 28th, 2009

The wild service tree has a similar range to that of the whitebeam, though it does not extend as far north and east. It requires a mild climate and thus is found in hilly country only up to 500 metres. Ideal conditions arc provided by limestone soils and sun-facing slopes, though in Britain it is often found on clay soils.

A comparatively small tree, it grows to a height of 10 to 20 metres, and develops a dome-like crown with erect branches and thorny twigs. The bark is furrowed in squares. The alternate leaves have a stalk almost as long as the blade. The abundantly borne white flowers appear in April and early May. The rounded fruit is borne on long stalks, and is yellow-green when ripe. The wild pear has deep roots and favours light, deep soils.

It needs a warmer climate than the apple, and usually grows on the margins of forests and on sun-warmed slopes up to an elevation of 400 to 500 metres. It may attain an age of 200 to 250 years. The wood is hard, fine-grained with a pink tinge, and is used to make furniture. The fruit is eaten by birds and forest animals. The leaves of some trees turn bright red in autumn.

The crab apple is a Eurasian species, south-east Europe being the chief centre of its distribution. It is much more frost-resistant than the pear and grows farther north. In central Europe, it occurs in hill country in mixed, broad-leaved woods, mostly in stands of oaks, where it has ample light, even near the forest floor.

The crab apple is a small tree growing to a height of only 5 to 10 metres. It has a broad crown and grey-brown bark that peels off in thin scales. The flowers, borne in clusters, arc usually pinkish outside, white inside, with yellow stamens, and open one to several weeks later than those of the pear. The fruit is a small greenish yellow apple, sometimes flushed red, with a short stalk and brown, drop-like seeds.

The crab apple thrives best in moist fertile soils, and requires ample light for good growth. It is the main species, and has given rise to many cultivated varieties. Fruit-growers to this day use it as a frost-resistant dwarfing rootstock for grafting the garden varieties. In the wild, its fruit is eaten by forest animals, and many of its lovely, richly coloured, flowering forms are frequently planted in parks as ornamentals.

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Grey Alder and Common Hornbeam

Saturday, February 28th, 2009

The common beech is widespread in western, central and southern Europe, but absent in the northern and eastern parts with severe winters. In the mountains, it occurs even at elevations above 1000 metres. It is a shade-tolerant and vigorous tree that frequently grows in pure stands, but also occurs in mixed stands together with the spruce and fir, and, at lower altitudes, with the oak, hornbeam, and other broad-leaved trees. It attains a height of 30 to 40 metres and develops a long, smooth, silver-grey trunk with a high broad crown. The pointed buds are elongate, measuring 15 to 20 mm in length, and stand away from the twig.

The leaves are alternate. Beech woods are a lovely sight, in spring with their fresh green foliage, and in autumn when the leaves have turned a golden bronze. The male and female flowers appear in May, the seeds - polished red- brown nuts mature in October, dropping to the ground, where they are eaten by forest animals. In former times pigs were herded into beech woods to feed on the nuts.

The beech is a slow- growing tree whose fallen leaves enrich the soil and in certain areas it is marked by abundant natural propagation by seed. The hard wood is used to make furniture, parquet flooring, sleepers and cellulose. Its ornamental forms are often planted in parks.

The bark is smooth and greenish-grey, even in old trees. The buds, unlike those of the beech, are 10 mm long at the most, and pressed close to the twig. The leaves are alternate. The male and female catkins appear in May after the leaves, the fruit matures in late September. The seed does not germinate till the spring of the second year after sowing. The hornbeam is a prolific seeder and is marked by vigorous, natural regeneration.

The flowers of both sexes arc borne in 10 to 20-centimetre-long, upright catkins, the male flowers in the upper part and female flowers in the lower part. They appear in late June Julyand, by autumn, the female flowers develop into spiny burs bearing brownish nuts that are shed during October.

The common alder is marked by the vigorous production of stump sprouts and is often grown for coppicing. The roots have small nodules with nitrogen-fixing bacteria which thereby enrich the soil. The common alder is a fairly light- demanding, fast-growing tree. The yellowish-red wood is used for the foundations of bridges, for plywood and for matches.

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The Goblet System of Growing Grapes

Saturday, February 28th, 2009

The aim here is to produce a vine shaped like an open bush. The rods are allowed to grow naturally for the first year after planting. The rods are then cut back to within two buds of their base in January.

The stakes can conveniently be 12 feet apart and a wire should run right the way along the top. I have used surplus telephone wire with success. Incidentally, another wire must be stretched a foot from ground level.

Once again in January cut back these 3 canes to within two buds of their base. Thus you will see that you are now producing your goblet-shaped bush with 6 branches. Each one of these 6 branches may carry six or seven bunches of grapes and the following January again they will be cut back to within two buds.

Do not, however, allow 12 rods to be produced or you may not be able to ripen the fruit. Stick to 6 or 7 rods tied to strong bamboos or stakes to form a goblet and gradually these shoots will bear more bunches of grapes up to, say, 8 per rod. Do not be tempted to reduce the pruning by cutting say to 5 buds, and do not be tempted either to try and make the vine crop more heavily.

Each of these laterals is allowed to bear one bunch of fruit this season. As the cordon is to remain tied horizontally to the lower wire, these laterals are pruned back in January to within one plump bud of their base. This bud, of course, will grow the next spring and once again the lateral will be trained upwards and tied to the top wire. This next year it will probably bear two good bunches and the year after maybe three bunches. From then on the crop will be three or four bunches per lateral.

Those who don’t believe in straw mulching may like to know that the prunings and foliage of healthy vines may be roto-tilled shallowly into the soil, in November, and so help to keep up the humus content. By rotary hoeing you smash up the prunings which then soon decompose.

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Climbing Strawberries

Friday, February 27th, 2009

In 1958 tremendous publicity was given to climbing strawberries which appear to have remontant blood. The original climber is said to have been produced in Germany by Herr Hummel and called by him Sonjana. Georges Truffaut of Versailles, France, has the sole rights for that country, selling the variety under the name Truffaut-Prodige.

The idea is to cultivate the blueberry in a similar manner to the blackcurrant: the rows should be 8 feet apart and the bushes 4 feet apart in the rows. The fruit is picked once a week during August and. September when other soft fruits are over.

King’s acre berry is a hybrid raised by crossing the blackberry and raspberry. It is picked earlier than the loganberry and the fruit comes away from the core easily, like a raspberry. It is like a long-shaped blackberry of excellent flavour. The canes are sturdy and bear heavy crops of fruit. Plant 8 feet apart.

Nectarberry is a seedling from the Youngberry. The fruits ripen two weeks before its parent and about four days after the first boysanberry. It crops far more heavily than the boysanberry and has a much longer season. There is no noticeable core and the seeds are on the soft side. It seems to do well in a drought and should be planted 8 feet apart.

Most people, however, allow some of the plants to scramble over the surface of the ground and thus they produce a heavy crop of runners for next year’s planting and they treat the climbing strawberry as an annual.

A good strain of this climbing strawberry is quite a profitable proposition. The plants, if trained up a fence or wall, take up little room and crop heavily.

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The Benefits of Renting Computers

Friday, February 27th, 2009

Computer rental is something that both businesses and individuals may decide is a good idea for them. This is because there are certain advantages of renting a computer over buying one. Perhaps it is difficult for an individual to see how renting a computer can be beneficial compared to buying one, but that is about to change.

So what are the benefits of renting computers?

- More individuals are able to have computers within their homes when they are renting. They may not be able to pay a lump sum for a computer, so they pay a small monthly amount instead.

- Individuals unable to acquire financing will find that renting a computer works better for them. There are also rent to own options out there. They can rent it until they pay a certain amount. When that certain amount is reached, they then own the computer.

- When renting, individuals are able to trade in for newer models. This means that they can upgrade every year or two if they wish. When renting, there is no such thing as having an obsolete machine.

- For business, the business may find that renting is more affordable than purchasing, especially if they are not in need of the equipment for long periods of time. There are times in which a company may only need a computer for a short time. If that’s the case, there is no need to buy, especially when the cost of renting will never reach the cost of buying.

Since we live in the day and age in which computers are a must, it is a necessity that homes and businesses have computers within them. At least now the server rental business has provided a solution for those who are credit challenged, financially challenged, and for those looking for a short-term solution.

As for the process that is used, credit checks are usually not required when renting. The only criteria are that there is an income, a job to get that income, a home address, a contact number, and a down payment on that rental. Sometimes, the rental company will check personal references to see how the person fares in the eyes of others in regards to reliability. Many individuals would not say a bad word about the person needing the rental, and others will decide that it is in their best interest to be honest. This helps the rental company make an informed decision about who to rent to and who not to rent to. That way they don’t experience a loss.

After the computers are rented out to the renters, they simply pay based on the terms that are set forth for them. They may agree to pay on a monthly basis for the equipment. There are some instances in which they may pay based on another set of terms or pay in advance, so it is whatever is more comfortable for that individual. That is what is great about renting. You can always pay the way that you are comfortable. For the individual, it is beneficial to pay based on when they receive their paychecks. That way it is difficult to forget the payment since rental payments do not involve sending a bill or invoice.

All-in-all, renting computers can be quite superior to buying them. Another aspect of renting is that even when the warranty expires on the machine, you can have it serviced for as long as you’re renting. This is because the computer is still the property of the rental company, so it is their responsibility to ensure that it is in working condition. That in itself is a great reason to rent.

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Growing Gooseberry Tips

Friday, February 27th, 2009

Use old well-rotted farmyard manure at a similar rate, but really old manure is so difficult to get these days that I usually discount it. It is important not to use too much nitrogen because one doesn’t want to encourage the rapid growth of young shoots.

These not only make picking difficult but they are apt to blow off in the wind. Fortunately, gooseberries show potash shortage very quickly by producing brown edges to the leaves. When this occurs one must hurriedly use wood ashes which cause the bushes to recover, interestingly enough, far quicker than by applying sulphate of potash.

In my farm, thereare individual gooseberries weighing over 2 oz. in weight, with a girth of nearly 6 inches. Such a gooseberry would sit comfortably on the top of a 1-1b. jam jar. It is a great pity that these societies have largely disappeared, but people seem to prefer T.V. today to the specialized flower or fruit clubs. I have grown such exhibition berries myself and it is a fascinating hobby.

Pruning should therefore be delayed as late in the winter as possible because this makes it more difficult for the birds to get about among the bushes, while it may be necessary to interweave black cotton among the branches to keep these normal feathered friends away. In the case of the gooseberry varieties that are grown to produce berries for cooking, the pruning can be reduced considerably. Here, after four years of age, when the goblet-shaped branches have been formed, one need only carry out a certain amount of trimming so that picking can easily be done.

I used to use a sulphate of potash, which was made from grape skins, at an ounce to the square yard and this was also successful. In addition to the wood ashes, the main dressing should be really well-rotted compost (not the rubbish heap material which some people call compost!) at one good barrow-load to 8 sq. yards.

In light soil this could be forked into the ground or rotor tilled into the ground before planting, but with heavy land it is better to apply the compost as a top dressing in a large circle around the bushes after planting.

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Alpine Strawberries

Friday, February 27th, 2009

There is a wide range of remontant strawberries which increase the strawberry season by cropping heavily in. September and October. Even soils rich in lime, on which it is not easy to grow the normal strawberry varieties will produce perpetuals happily. Many people like to cover the rows with cloches or ganwicks early in October so that the berries can go on swelling and ripening until late in November. They usually yield. their heaviest crop the first season after planting but they will continue to crop for a number of years. I, however, likes to make a new bed every second year in the spring. Sometimes this has to be done by splitting the old plants because some varieties do not produce runners.

Cambridge Rearguard is for those who must have a very late variety. It does not do well however on poorly drained soil and is very subject to the Red Core disease and mildew. On dry sandy land it is a good cropper, and a strong grower. The flavour is good but rather acid and the fruits are rounded, conical and very dark crimson. Season very late.

Cambridge Sentry is included because it is a variety which is resistant to Root Rots and mildew. Is a good type for bottling, canning and jam-making. It has dark green foliage and tallish, upright stems. The trusses are held well off the ground until ripening takes place. The fruits are firm and of a glossy crimson colour. Season mid.

Cambridge Vigor is a good variety for a frost pocket because the blossom trusses develop late Resistant to Red Core, botrytis and mildew. Excellent for canning, deep freezing and jam- making. Fruit is conical and glossy crimson. Season early.

Charles Sinnen is not an easy variety to get hold of because it does not produce any runners and must be propagated in November by divisions of crowns. It is included because it is considered to be the most delicious remontant. Red Rich came from the U.S.A. and is now offered by one or two British nurserymen. It is an easy-to-grow kind with dark red juicy berries and dark green leaves. it is a strong grower and a heavy cropper and will produce runners.

Royal Sovereign may be compared to the Cox’s Orange of apples. Very delicious when well grown. Good for the heavier type of soil. The fruits are scarlet, very large and of excellent quality. Rather too leafy for growing under ganwicks or cloches. A lovely variety for the small garden. Season mid. Cambridge Rival is a grand variety for the wetter parts of Great Britain and in rainy seasons. Produces short trusses, plus foliage that is on long stems clear of the fruit. Is a good variety for sandy soils which may be low in potash, and the flavour of the berries is improved under ganwicks or frames. Is very resistant to the Red Core Root Rot. Fruits are large, conical, firm and crimson. They do not however travel well. Season early.

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Growing Blackcurrants

Friday, February 27th, 2009

Get the bushes planted as early as possible, preferably in November or early December. Always plant two-year-olds, if possible. After the second year the pruner aims to remove two or three branches each winter, with the idea of encouraging the production of new wood.

Not only do blackcurrants revel in this no-digging method of cultivation but, in addition, it proves to be a far cheaper method of cultivation than the shallow digging and hoeing. Anyway, the blackcurrants can send their roots right up to the surface of the soil, under the straw mulching method, and they never get disturbed. At the Thaxted Horticultural College this method has resulted in crops of nearly 5 tons an acre and such yields are most encouraging.

Big buds are caused by miniature mites which cause the fruiting buds to swell to a large size. They are thus easily recognizable. Spray when the majority of the leaves are the size of a two-shilling piece, dissolving 1 pint of lime sulphur in 14 pints of water.

It is better not to cultivate in between blackcurrant bushes. I had tried grassing down in contrast to strawing. The disadvantage of this system is that the grass has to be cut fourteen or fifteen times during the summer and autumn and this makes extra work.

If the stems of the blackcurrant bushes suddenly wilt, the blackcurrant shoot moth caterpillar must be suspected. A tunnel will be found in the centre of the shoot made by a small caterpillar. The only way to get rid of this pest is to cut all the branches down to within an inch of ground level, in the spring, and so to sacrifice the crop for one year.

All blackcurrants are self-fertile, but for a good heavy set of flowers one must rely on insect visitors and particularly bumble bees. A sheltered place, therefore, for blackcurrant growing is always advisable.

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