Understanding the difference between a man-made, or cultured, diamond and a natural stone from a mine is wise when you are considering a jewelry purchase.
Previously, synthetic diamond production methods resulted in cubic zirconia, a cheap stone that is greatly derided by the jewelry industry. The latest technological advances, however, allow scientists to produce gem-quality stones in laboratories everywhere. Rather than taking millions of years, a lab created gem may be produced in a matter of days. The leading research and grading body in gemology, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), certifies some lab grown stones as genuine diamonds.
There are two basic ways that man-made gems are created. HPHT (high pressure high temperature) is a process that has been used for several decades. While this method does simulate the natural way that mother earth makes these precious stones, and physically, visually, and chemically they are almost exactly the same as those found in the earth, these synthetic stones can be identified by a trained gemologist using standard gem-testing equipment.
The more recently developed method, called CVD (chemical vapor deposition), grows gems at low pressure and relatively low temperatures. It produces crystals that are not only suitable for faceting for jewelry purposes: they are also more “pure” than those grown through HPHT, and are considerably more difficult to distinguish from natural stones.
The most obvious reason for purchasing created gems is to save money. However, the amount saved will vary based on the type of stone selected. Color or “fancy” diamonds, which are extremely rare in nature, are far more available via lab created gems. While this ready availability lowers the price as compared to natural stones, high quality man-made gems are certainly not priced as inexpensively as cubic zirconia.
There is a strong movement of environmentalists and social activists who are openly declaring a preference for lab produced stones, similar to how some segments of the population prefer faux fur to hides of animals. Frequently, it is difficult to know the exact sourcing of a natural stone. As gems mined in war zones to raise money for civil wars and terrorism, commonly referred to as “blood diamonds,” comprise up to ten percent of the total supply, this is a concern for many people. What’s more, mining processes are often quite damaging to the environment. Choosing lab created stones instead is a way to ensure that the purchase won’t contribute to war, terrorism, or environmental degradation while also saving on costs.
If a stone’s authenticity is uncertain, there are a few things that can help ascertain whether a gem is mined or lab produced. A lower price than similar stones is a good sign that the stone is lab created. Also, the vast majority of natural colored diamonds are not as brightly or vividly colored as those that are synthetically produced. Furthermore, most natural stones contain small mineral deposits called inclusions. These show up as dark spots under a jeweler’s loupe. While flawless natural stones do exist, they are very expensive due to their rarity. While a lack of inclusions may be an indication of a lab-produced gem, is not a way to conclusively prove the stone’s origin.
“Cultured” is a code word for man-made. As with cultured pearls, this is meant to inform you that man has interfered with the natural process. Thus if a gem is advertised as cultured, it is almost certainly lab created. Any reputable jeweler will be happy to inform customers as to which pieces contain man-made stones.
Whether due to the reduced cost, social and environmental concerns, or simply the pleasure of having a vividly colored stone that would otherwise be nearly impossible to procure, there are many excellent reasons why more and more people are purchasing and enjoying lab produced diamond jewelry.
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